Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Review TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 Chronograph Telemeter

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 Chronograph Telemeter was first shown a month or so prior to Basel and is on sale as you read this. When viewing the online pictures, I was intrigued, but I wasn’t truly convinced. What I mean to say is that I’ve seen so many different TAG Heuer retro pieces that I’ve become somewhat complacent and I withhold judgment until seeing them “in the metal.” Well, readers, I’ve seen and held the Carrera Telemeter and I can say that it is one gorgeous piece. It’s not without fault, but it is a watch that tells us very clearly that despite the frequent concessions to pop culture by the brand, the purists are alive and well at TAG Heuer. Let’s take a closer look, but before we do, let’s list the basics.

Case: Stainless Steel, 39mm

Crystal(s): Domed anti-reflective sapphire front with display back

Movement: Automatic Chronograph, 2-registers with date

Dial: Opaline silver with anthracite registers and Telemeter scale

Water resistance: 100 meters

Strap: Perforated black leather with folding “Heuer” logo buckle

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Carrera Calibre 5 Drive Timer by TAG Heuer

Dubbed the Drive Timer (a nod to TAG Heuer's participation as Official Timekeeper at the annual Goodwood Festival Of Speed), the latest replica TAG Heuer Carrera isn't a chronograph, but supplants the near-ubiquitous two - or three-subdial layout of the traditional chronograph with a bold design featuring large white numerals.

The "Drive Timer" relates to the pusher at ten o'clock (again, a nod to TAG Heuer's history of producing high-performance stopwatches long-favoured by the motor-racing community) that rotates the Carrera's characteristic inner bezel. Align the red pointer with the minute hand, and timing 60 minutes is as simple as reading off the scale graduated in intervals of five.

The movement inside the handsome 43mm black titanium carbide version shown here (it's also available in stainless steel) is the Calibre 5, which features a power reserve of 38 hours, and the bi-colour perforated leather strap evokes the same -automotive attitude as the 80th Anniversary Jack Heuer Carrera 1887 unveiled in 2012 to recognise the retirement of the company's honorary chairman.

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Thursday, May 12, 2016

Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu Limited Edition Watch

This is the new Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu a limited edition of 200 pieces.  The watch was designed in collaboration between Hublot and Maxime Büchi, a tattoo artist who tattooed Kanye West, among others, in his London shop named Sang Bleu.You can see a lot of new design elements in this Big Bang, laden with beveled lines and geometric patterns - replica Hublot Big Bang.

I really like the bezel, which sees its roundness edged off and turned into a hexagon, to very cool effect.  The matte black dial has a wide & sloping circularK flange stamped with the hours and given a black satin-finish (with special typeface as well). Another neat feature here — the time forgoes hands and instead uses three rhodium- plated octagonal-shaped discs superimposed.  The largest disc indicates the hours, while the small one marks the minutes. 

To make it easier to read, the tips of the hours and minutes octagons is in white Superluminova.  As for the seconds, these tick by in the center on a black disc stamped with the H of Hublot and the stylised hourglass of Sang Bleu (kinda hard to see on the watch, but see watch box lid above).

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Breguet Héritage Grande Date 5410 Watch

Breguet adds a simpler option to its Héritage series, joining the Héritage 5400 (a chronograph) and the Héritage 5497 (a tourbillon).  Though in a tonneau-shaped case which is curved along two axes, the Héritage collection shows us that even in a non-round shape, a Breguet remains unmistakably a Breguet.

The 5410 has a simple date + small seconds. The date aperture at 12 o’clock separately frames two date digits, while subtly intersecting the brushed minute scale ring; outside this scale are luminescent Roman numerals of varying size, and at 6 o’clock is a small seconds.  As Breguet is apt to do, the silvered dial is decorated with several delightful looking engine-turned patterns, creating additional visual segmentation (and visual appeal) of the dial.

45mm x 32mm white gold tonneau-shape case with fluted caseband, automatic mechanical Breguet Cal 516GG (65 hrs power reserve, silicon balance spring, 4Hz.

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